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Fortunately seemed touchscreenen still, and the LCD was all right, so I could continue to use the phone for a while, but it had certainly lost its sex appeal. Something had to be done.
I thought at first to bring it to dripod.no, taking 1000, – dollars to replace the glass (in person!), But I thought I’d make an attempt to fix it myself and it’s the rest of the This article will be about. Watch and learn!
Tools and Parts
Things you need – A broken iPhone 3G (glass shattered but the LCD works). If you do not have one, you can always consider to crush a – New glass + digitizer (Buy this as a unit, not individually? Cheapest I found cost $ 23.68 at Deal Extreme including shipping) – Super Lite star-head screwdriver (I bought a little silly kit from Deal Extreme for $ 3, but it was only because the mini-screwdriver mine was so worn, it would not ruin the screws. Did with lots of useless plastic nonsense that’s supposed to make it easier to open the phone.) – A sharp knife with a thin blade, to get the glass frame away from the silver plastic bezel.
– Updated: A small suction cup, such as a way that you often get when you buy hallogenlamper. – A heat gun or hair dryer (to melt the glue that holds the glass fixed to the frame. A heat gun gives you more control.) – Double-sided tape, as thin as possible (you can buy pre-cut tape, or you can cut your own, like I did)
– A small box or something to keep the screws in (a bit obvious, but hey). -Dings to pop out SIM card holder (AKA paperclip) – Scissors – A refractory child-free area (I had neither or so I take it on the list)
– An understanding that there is an imminent possibility of doing permanent damage to your phone if you follow these instructions. It went well for me, but it is not certain it goes well for you.
Useful tutorials www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZl5FeZXTwA (the video is at the bottom of this article as well and is nice to see how to remove the cables from the motherboard. But it stops before you get to the step where you need heat gun).
Remove the SIM card and the two screws in the bottom
Find a bind and insert it into the small hole at the top of the phone to the SIM card will pop loose.
Unscrew the two screws at the bottom of the phone (one on each side of the opening where you connect to the charger).
Pry loose framework
I actually had two phones, as a colleague of mine also ruined his phone about the day after he got it. I could therefore exert myself a bit. And a good thing, because this step is a bit hairy to get to without doing damage to the black frame surrounding and behind glass. Use a knife with a narrow blade, I used a utility knife. You must get the knife firmly between the black gummy list and the silver-colored plastic, and I had to coax and convince a lot before I got the frame to loosen. I used the knife to lift enough that I got the blade into the frame, and then it came. But that said, be careful, do not use too much power! Destroys the frame is the bad way. I did some minor damage to the black rubber, but it is barely visible.
Updated: Torger tips in the comments about using a small suction cup to lift out the glass. I found no suction when I repaired mine, but it sounds really tricked out. You may have to use a knife at all actually. I’ll have to try that next time.
Disconnect the three cables
When you have lifted up the bottom part of the black frame that is next to loosen the three cables that connect the display to the motherboard.
The cables are labeled 1, 2, 3, simply, but be careful when you remove them, so you do not damage the pairings. Use knife or a small flat screwdriver to pry them loose gently (please see the video at the bottom of the article if you are unsure).
The connections labeled 1 and 2 lift straight up, but number 3 is slightly different. On some phones it is a small white flap that you have to pick on other phones, like mine, this flap black. You lift the flap so that it is almost straight up. and then you can pull out the last cable. (Again, see the video at the bottom if you feel unsafe).
You now have loosened the LCD + glass + frame from the rest of the phone. Bright! Now I think you should put the cables in place before proceeding, to see if you get it right. You should be able to turn the phone on now and see that the LCD and touchscreenen still works. Squeeze like frame back in place also halfway so you get a feeling for how the frame should sit when you are done.
Close up of the flap that holds the cable number 3
Congratulations! To the left you can see the back of the frame and the LCD as you now will screw loose.
Separate the LCD from the frame
You’ll find three mini screws on one side and two on the other, hidden under some black tape. Remove all five.
Turn screw screw
This is the last screw you need to remove, I promise. It is placed at the back of the LCD, the top of the phone. This screw and the five screws on the sides are the same size, so you do not stress if you mix them.
Pry the LCD away from the frame
Place your knife, or any part of plastic under the bottom part of the LCD, and see if you can lift it gently. You have to lift a little and then pull it slightly downward. Do not use excessive force when you can break the LCD. It’s stupid.
Moreover, it seems that the LCD is pretty solid. The test phone I borrowed from my collage fell out of his pocket while he drove motorcycle (!) And it is still intact. In fact, it is his LCD that now stands in my phone, I ended up using both it and his frame on my own. Really Frank Phone in other words!
LCD and the glass frame separated
Girl with a Pearl Earring crushed
No, this is not art, it’s just me with my broken iPhone. There are few things that strikes to destroy their own assets, then fix them again, preferably.
Place a newspaper or anything else that burns very well (irony) under the frame / glass, and turn on the heat gun or hair dryer. You have to experiment a bit forward with the distances and how long to heat, but take the piano. Test bit warm only a few seconds and see if you get raised his glass fragments. The worst thing that can happen now is that you melt the Home button, and heats up the glass so much that the frame turns. The latter happened to me, but I got it fixed by heating gently frame and bend it back to its original shape (more or less) with your fingers. Also be careful not to melt the soft black rubber seal surrounding the glass. The less damage you do this the less dirt and moisture get into the phone later.
Attempts to release the glass from the frame with fingers
I read online that someone recommended to start in the upper left corner, but I have no idea why. On my phone had already loosened the glass from the frame on the sides, so I decided to start there.
I managed to remove the middle part of the glass without difficulty, without using the heat gun at all really, but it depends on how herpa your glass is. The glass top and bottom of the frame set however stuck pipe.
But by heating the glass bit by bit, I found eventually a combination of distance and time that worked. I heated a few seconds and then tried to pry out a piece of glass with a knife, but again without breaking. The frame seems remarkably solid, but take the time to help so you do not break it. I spent about 30 minutes to get the glass fixed. I also use a pair of tweezers, but you can do the job with just a knife.
A great bit <br />
Warm up the glass again
A closer look at the double-sided tape that is used on the iPhone
The original glass is attached to the frame with a transparent double sided tape on the top and bottom. But it is located quite a few electronics here too, so to get enough surface tape should be cut so that you do not cover the speaker, various sensors and home button. Around the Home button is easy, but the top section of the panel is more intricate to achieve. Note that the tape does not go right to the edge.
Almost done with glass removal
Use a knife or a flat screwdriver to scrape off as much as you can of the remaining tape and small glass fragments that may remain. In addition to the double-sided tape, it appears that Apple have used some form of silicone to attach the glass edge around the edges. If you have nail polish remover or acetone and you can probably use it to rub the frame clean.
Although I used a q-tip with elekronikk cleaner on this. It is important to get the surface as clean and smooth as possible, and of course, fat-free, so that the tape does not come off.
It is also important that the new glass is placed as deep as possible in the frame. I was a little small lazy, so I’m a bit sloppy with this step, causing the glass to lay a tiny bit higher than the original. No big deal, but worth doing properly.
Cut your own double-sided tape.
I had two rolls of double-sided tape lying, but I guess you can buy it at any decent hardware store and building materials business. The tape should be as thin as possible.
I did not really think to order pre-cut tape from the net, but I did not find it at Deal Extreme, and would not wait forever to get it in the mail from someone else (DealExtrem is too slow, it takes at least a few weeks before get what you order, often more).
Here are some tips to make an easier to cut the tape:
The new glass I bought from Deal Extreme was protected by thin transparent plastic on all surfaces, and on the top and bottom were two pieces that worked perfectly as templates. This plastic is a bit sticky, so just to put it in the back of the transparent tape and cut around.
Double-sided tape cut and placed
As you can see on the picture you have to cut the tape so that it does not cover anything important.
Tip: To get to the top with all their weird shapes, I put a clear plastic bag over the frame, and used alcohol-marker to highlight the fields that had to be cut away. I then record the plastic tape and taped the bag firmly, and could then cut out the fields I had hatched out of the bag. Maybe smart, maybe there’s an easier way, but it works anyway.
Place the tape in place in the frame and press down firmly for a while in every corner. Remove the protective film on the double-sided tape. Almost done!
Insert the new glass panel
Wash hands and put on Michael Jackson-your gloves so you do not get grease stains on the back of the glass. Then take off plastic film on the back of the glass (left on the front side).
I did not take pictures of this, but it’s pretty self explanatory. Place the bottom of the glass to the bottom of the frame, and then lower it gently. Use the Home button as a guide. The tape pieces not fixed right away, so you’re able to move around on the glass to fit perfectly in the frame.
Make sure the cables are connected to the panel does not get stuck in the tape, use your fingers to get the cables on the right side of the frame and not get caught between the frame and glass.
Squeeze as hard a good while (20-30 seconds) on each corner of the glass so that the tape is wearing out as well as possible.
And presto, that was the hard part over! Now it’s just screw everything back in place!
Iphone 3G, good as new!
I skip over how to set the phone again, it’s just doing it in reverse. The important thing is that you are super careful when attaching the cables, so you do not damage the connections in any way. Do not use excessive force. One of the cables from the frame are placed in a kind of loop, and is very eager to be up, but when it is in the way of SIM card holder later (I found out the hard way), so you have to bend this loop so that it points toward the Home button.
Once you have connected the three wires, and before you squeeze the glass frame into place, then you should turn on the phone and test that everything works. And it does, of course, so it’s just squeezing the frame in place, and put in the last two screws!
And then there’s only one thing left to do and that is to brag about how good you are and environmentally friendly to everyone you know. 😉